Vinous - Score: 99 (2018 May)

The 1948 Cheval Blanc may well constitute the most unheralded legendary wine of the 20th century, in no small part because it precedes the 1947. However, after years of several mavens lionizing this vintage and after one impressive but not convincing bottle, I encountered a 1948 Cheval Blanc that frankly, blew me away. This third bottle originates from the same source as that and mirrors its performance. Deep and lucid in color, it has a quite astonishing bouquet that is high-toned and decadent: kirsch, blueberry and a hint of liquorice, all beautifully defined. But it is the power that knocks you sideways. The palate is exquisitely balanced with supple tannin, velvety in texture with a multi-layered smorgasbord of glistening red fruit towards the finish – wild strawberry, Morello cherry, and cranberry all mixed with subtle ferrous and tobacco notes. It is a wondrous Saint-Émilion that I would dearly love to compare with the 1947 one day! Tasted at a private dinner in London.